How to spend a day in Edinburgh
Scotland’s capital city is home to a host of museums and cultural destinations offering a warm welcome during the colder months.
A version of this article first appeared in the winter 2025 issue of Art Quarterly, the membership magazine of Art Fund.
Right by Waverley railway station and the modern tram line, Princes Street Gardens faces the welcoming new entrance of National Galleries Scotland: National, which boasts a fine collection of European masters from the Renaissance to Post-Impressionism. Its recently transformed, light-filled Scottish galleries offer an introduction to homegrown talents, including the vibrant Scottish Colourists. Every January, the National shows its JMW Turner watercolours, a popular winter tradition here when the days are short.
For up-to-date delights, head along Market Street, home to a pair of venues showing contemporary art. With its finger firmly on the artworld pulse, Fruitmarket has been even more ambitious since opening its double-height Warehouse space, adding to its excellent café and shop. The current exhibition is by Native American artist Jaune Quick-to-See Smith (to 1 February 2026), who sadly passed away early in 2025. Across the street, City Art Centre has a scintillating collection of Scottish art dating from the 17th century to the present day, with highlights from luminaries such as Joan Eardley, Eduardo Paolozzi and William Johnstone on display in ‘Out of Chaos: Post-WarScottish Art 1945-2000’ (to 8 March 2026).
Now climb one of the city’s most evocative thoroughfares, twisting Cockburn Street, to reach the capital’s cobbled heart, the Royal Mile. At this dramatic route’s summit stands the impressive bulk of Edinburgh Castle, just one of more than 300 properties cared for by Historic Environment Scotland, the body that protects much of the country’s heritage through conservation and maintaining collections. The castle also houses the National War Museum, which brings to life the nation’s proud military history, notably through personalising exhibits to tell the stories of the objects’ former owners.
Back down the Mile, turn right onto George IV Bridge for the imposing National Library of Scotland. One of the UK’s largest libraries, and currently celebrating its centenary, the institution’s visitor centre shows off such treasures as Robert Burns’ manuscripts. Further along, pay homage to the statue of another much-loved, long-term resident, loyal hound Greyfriars Bobby. From there, take a left onto elegant Chambers Street, dominated by the expansive National Museum of Scotland. Still gleaming from its 2011 refurbishment, this offers an interactive and immersive celebration of its home nation’s industry and ingenuity. With collections ranging from Egyptology to fashion, it is hard to pick highlights, though do make time for thrilling views from its seventh-floor roof terrace.
Afterwards, duck right into West College Street to explore the University of Edinburgh’s stately neoclassical architecture. At its heart, grand Old College hosts the Talbot Rice Gallery, with its own series of must-see contemporary art exhibitions. The latest, titled ‘The Children Are Now’ (to 7 February 2026), features work by Francis Alÿs, Monster Chetwynd and Bob and Roberta Smith, among others. Head through the college courtyard, on to South Bridge to find the Surgeons’ Hall Museums. Inspired by Ionic temples, this august edifice hosts a shrine to the city’s leading role in medicine, with three sections based on teaching collections: surgery – including an exhibit on Edinburgh’s infamous bodysnatchers – dentistry and pathology.
Ready for more art? Head back up South Bridge and right, down Infirmary Street, to Dovecot Studios, a world-renowned tapestry centre. Housed within the tastefully refurbished Infirmary Street Baths, the generously lit spaces host a studio, a shop that supports local makers and intriguing exhibitions, such as ‘Ikea: Magical Patterns’ (to 17 January 2026). Follow evocative High School Wynd, Cowgate and Niddry Street to St Cecilia’s Hall Concert Room & Music Museum. Scotland’s oldest custom-built concert hall – an outstanding ellipse lovingly restored by the university – also houses a collection of historic instruments.
Now time for a more energetic stroll –up Edinburgh’s own Acropolis, steep-sided Calton Hill. Built in 1818 and based on Athens’ ancient Temple of the Winds, the former City Observatory was Edinburgh’s original seat of astronomy and timekeeping, as evinced by its well-preserved ‘politician’s clock’. Now it’s home to art centre Collective, which showcases key emerging artists, as well as affording stunning views of the city and the surrounding area, including from its on-site eaterie, Cafe Calton.
Heading back down to the north side of Princes Street allows us to explore Edinburgh’s elegant New Town. Begin with the National Galleries’ gorgeous Portrait gallery: in a fabulous purpose-built neo-Gothic palace with Zodiac-decorated ceiling and historic frieze, this institution celebrates famous countryfolk from Mary Queen of Scots to Billy Connolly. At the far end of Queen Street, turn into Charlotte Square, designed by renowned architect Robert Adam, to visit the Georgian House, a perfectly preserved townhouse that displays how the wealthy made this area their own in the early 19th century (closed for winter until 6 February 2026).
Our final, but no less important, two venues are sited in Edinburgh’s leafy West End. To reach National Galleries: Modern One and Two you may prefer to take a bus or tram, though you could also follow the delightful Water of Leith, a bucolic riverside trail that passes through charming Dean Village – you may even spot a kingfisher. Two grand buildings celebrate modern art from Impressionism to Tracey Emin, including Scotland’s vital contributions, among them work by Turner Prize-winner Douglas Gordon and a recreation of Paolozzi’s studio. While Edinburgh may make the most of its historical roles on the world stage, the city thrives today as a dynamic metropolis in the here and now
Beyond art in Edinburgh
Eat
While Edinburgh offers plenty of decent stops to recharge, it’s especially worth queuing for top-quality caffeine hits at indie coffee haunt the Milkman. For more substantial fare, try the excellent-value seasonal lunch menu at laid-back restaurant the Outsider.
Shop
Make a pilgrimage to the former port district of Leith to drool over the carefully curated stock at Hugo Macdonald and James Stevens’ homeware store Bard. It’s like stepping into a gallery devoted to Scottish craft and design (open Friday to Sunday).
Relax
Apart from Calton Hill’s fresh air and views or immersing yourself in nature along the Water of Leith, the looming heights of Arthur’s Seat beckon from Holyrood Park. Elsewhere, the Royal Botanic Garden’s magical illuminated trail (charges apply) runs to 30 December.