The concept behind this exhibition has been in development for over a decade – the intention to focus on a largely overlooked aspect of Andy Warhol’s work. The textile designs on show here trace back to Warhol’s early career as a graphic designer and illustrator in the 1950s and early 1960s, the patterns produced for commercial clients such as Glamour magazine. Though trammelled by the demands of each commission, this exhibition argues that this early work was significant in enhancing Warhol’s later output. 

Displayed as both fabric lengths in several different colourways and incorporated intotailored garments are 45 different patterns, featuring motifs including buttons, cut lemons, clowns, pretzels and ice cream sundaes. The vibrancy and bold combination of colours is striking, given the brightness of Warhol’s screenprints in the subsequent decades.

The selection also showcases the manufacturers responsible for producing the fabrics, with companies such as Stehli Silks, Fuller Fabrics Inc., and M Lowenstein and Sons among the most significant in America’s history.