Made You Look: Dandyism and Black Masculinity

Jeffrey Henson-Scales, Young Man in Plaid, NYC, 1991

© Jeffrey Henson-Scales Courtesy of the artist

Hassan Hajjaj Afrikan Boy, 2012

© Hassan Hajjaj Courtesy of the artist

Malick Sidibé, Les trois amis avec moto, 1975

© Malick Sidibé Courtesy of Tristan Hoare

The term dandy – referring to a man who pays particular attention to his style and appearance – was first coined in the Victorian era, and has been used to describe the tweed suits, frilled blouses and crafted moustaches of Lord Byron, Oscar Wilde and Salvador Dalí.

This exhibition explores its specific iteration among the African diaspora, for whom dandyism is problematic – the willed flamboyance is in total contrast to conventional constructions of black masculinity. Here it is seen as a form of personal politics; more than sharp dressing it defies the notion that there is one monolithic definition of black manhood.